Hospitality and gastronomy is not a simple issue to deal with as it has prevailed in Greece. Their role is not to fulfill our fundamental, biological need of nourishment – therefore there are our kitchens and the quick eateries. Apart from a profound opportunity for relaxation from the asthmatic routine, visiting the idyllic microcosm of a good restaurant is – or at least should be – an action of mental activity through intense, sensational stimuli, a ritual of cultural “initiation'”.
The restaurant is a lever of higher mental functions (development of aesthetical perception, memory, comparison, contrast, communication), either sourcing from a studied cooking or the process of ‘eating-together’ itself. The point is whether the fairytale, the story that they present to you the chef, the sous-chefs, the waiters, the staff, is finally convincing enough so that the time and money investment is worth it. And such experience one can find in a forgotten, small eatery to a 3 Michelin-starred haute cuisine restaurant. The art of gastronomy is not a matter of pricelist, but a love affair.
On this sort of criteria this column will remain based – substantial criteria that have nothing to do with academically meticulous analysis. And one pizzeria, transpiring odours of basil and parmesan, meets in a great deal the prerequisites.
The demands I set for a correct pizza are high: thin and crispy dough, fresh tomato sauce, pure buffalo mozzarella, rich and aromatic rocket. Minimalism with attention to the quality of the products, the balance between them and the right technique in the dough. Nothing more – nothing less. In the very short list of restaurants that meets the demands above, amongst “Trattoria” in Nea Erithrea and “Bandanna” in Mykonos, a recent and noticeably successful arrival in the thriving culinary scene of Kolonaki is added. “Capanna“. And not unreasonably whatsoever.
The more than quick service led to a plethora of colours and aromas on the table. The wine list substantial without chatter, the salads perfectly fresh, the pasta was nice without any extreme tendencies, the pizza was top, beaming you straight away from the uphill of Ploutarchou St. to the hills of San Giminiano.
The interior of the place lies in natural harmony with the concept of the dishes: emphasis on quality of the simple ingredients. No bounder. Wood and cozy minimalism. The credits go to the architectural office K-Studio, which for one more time gave us a concise architecture, which handles form and the materials with mother tenderness, while not lacking ingenuity at all.
Capanna undoubtedly emerges as a first choice for casual meal, taking the reasonable prices into account.
38 Ploutarhou St & Haritos
+30 210 7241777
Images shot by (and courtesy of) Yiorgos Kordakis.