London Fashion Week (Autumn-Winter 2012) was truly fascinating. Now that the dust has settled, it’s about time we took a closer look to the shows and collections, that shook us to the core. Day One had Corrie Nielsen, Fyodor Golan, Bora Aksu, Basso & Brooke on the plate.
Highlights – Day 1:
LFW AW12 had a powerful start for me, as I had the opportunity to style Corrie Nielsen‘s catwalk show, alongside Jo Phillips and the Cent magazine team. Vestiarium Scoticum is the third collection by the up and coming designer, who has spent many years in Dame Vivienne’s Westwood atelier and is now making her own distinctive mark on London’s catwalks.
Even though Corrie is from California herself, she looked back into her great-grandfather’s origin from Scotland and created a collection with strong victorian aesthetic, based on tartans and strong geometrical forms.
The fashion crowd adored her signature, haute-couture tailoring that is hard to come across nowadays, the laser-cut fascinators by milliner Emma Yeo and the innovative make-up technique of the “face-lace”.
I could easily claim that it was one of the best shows I’ve seen in a while, but I’m afraid my opinion can not be deemed objective, as I was an integral part of the show and its success. So feast your eyes with backstage images (above) of one of the most promising talents London has on offer.
Fashion Fringe’s winners, Fyodor and Golan are another up and coming London duo. For their first LFW collection they drew inspiration from nature and insects and created a show with a darker vibe. Models in heavy nose-rings, models wrapped in tight worm-like dresses, models waving colourful skirts like butterfly wings, models in cocoon-like headpieces and a model-grasshopper covered in green glitter from head to toe, screamed of semiotics. Symbolism is always interesting and, more importantly, a fashion show must tell a story, but eager new designers must learn the art of getting the message across with subtlety and finesse. However, this designer duo is thriving with talent and has a lot to offer, I am eager to watch them grow gracefully in the seasons to come.
Bora Aksu surprised us this season with a show blazing of Balkan brass music and winter pastels to die for. With a palette from light greys to vibrant pinks and beautiful folk references, twisted and reintroduced for a contemporary, yet nostalgic collection. Also, chiffon overlays are big this season, whereas Corrie Nielsen layered them over tartan, Bora Aksu layered sheer over printed fabrics.
Basso & Brooke:
If you are a fan of prints, you must adore Basso & Brooke. With their optical prints season after season they have grown into truly print artisans. For AW12, French artist Henri Matisse was their main inspiration and created collages and patchworks of dogtooths merged in every imaginable way. Basso & Brooke lead the way in beautifully patterned creations. Why does winter have to be all about black anyway?
All images shot by (and courtesy of) Katia Bololia.